Apr 4, 2018

Bumper Coating

1 comment

Edited: Apr 4, 2018

What does everyone recommend coating a bumper with? i have a winch bumper that i will be slapping on my 1998 XJ, I have had experience with that rustoleum spray and roll on bedliner in the past and powdercoating will be a bit out of budget so Im curious what you all have used and your opinions on the matter, Thanks in advance

Apr 5, 2018

Welcome to the Forum OhMe!


Great Question. we get asked this a lot. Most people think right off the bat. Powder Coat! My experience has been bad with powder coat. if it scratches, you can't touch it up, if it cracks or get rust under it, the entire coating has to be removed and re finished in order to make it right again, I have rock sliders on my jeep. They took about a month of abuse before they started to rust under the powder coat, then started to split, now, there are huge spots missing, and blown up with rust. and my only option is to remove them, remove the powder coat entirely and start over. Lame! To say the least.


So, What to use?





I use a product called POR15. It comes in a Qt can or gallon. has a professional warranty, and will straight, chemically bond to the metal if done right.


You will need to clean the metal with a wax and grease remover. You will need one Qt spray jug of the POR15 "Metal Prep" this is a acid treatment for the metal, that leaves a magnesium phosphate powder on the metal, as well as etches into it. This is crucial! Keep wet with this for 15 to 20 min as it will penetrate the metal and give the POR15 a good base to bond to. W/O it, the coating May peel off, even when full cured. (ask me how I know. . . ) After the 15-20 min, rinse with water. This will deactivate the acid, and rinse any excess materials away. Let The Water dry, make sure the part is BONE DRY. Its ready for coating! Make sure to sturr the can, DO NOT Shake it, it will put unwanted air bubbles into the coating. This can be sprayed on, but is best applied with a brush. Give it a good wet coat and let stand about 20 min, apply a second and final coat of POR15. Let sit 20-40 min, You want the coating to "Flash" it will be dry to the touch, meaning you can blow dust off of it or run your fingers across it fast, but if touched slowly, is still "tacky".





The POR15 has little to no UV coating in it. This means if left by itself, it will fade and oxidise fast in the sun. they recommend applying a top coat. this is where your rattle can comes into play. You can get it in any color and even do body color if you want (or close to) i prefer black so it can be rattles caned for touch up later on. trail damage happens often lol.


Make Sure the top coat you use is is acrylic urethane(the label on the can will say) and make sure to hit it before the POR15 is fully dry. They need to chemically bond in order to get it right. if you do it too soon. the POR15 will bleed through your top coat, too later(POR15 too dry) the top coat and undercoat will blister. (bad juju)







This is what i would do. its a little bit steep for paint, but well worth it. it will have a permanent coating that will outlast the steal if done right. and with a spray paint topcoat, you can rattle can it any time you want D/T getting beat off rocks and such.


Here is a link to the process.

I hope this helps. Hit me up if you have any questions.


Thanks for stopping by, hope to see you around !


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